How to Compare Fence Bids: A Homeowner’s Checklist

You’ve done the right thing — you got multiple bids on your fence project. Now you’re staring at three quotes with three different numbers and trying to figure out why one is $1,400 cheaper than the other two and whether that’s a deal or a warning sign.

Here’s the uncomfortable truth about fence bids: price is almost always the least informative number on the page. Two bids for a wood privacy fence in the same backyard can look identical on the surface — same footage, same height, same species — and produce fences that will perform completely differently over the next decade. The difference lives in the details that don’t show up in the total line.

This checklist walks through the six areas where wood fence bids differ beyond price so you can evaluate what you’re actually being offered before you sign anything.

Why Wood Fence Bids Vary So Much

Before getting into the checklist, it helps to understand why the range on wood fence bids is so wide. Unlike a commodity purchase where you’re comparing identical products, a wood fence bid is a bundle of material choices, installation decisions, and labor standards that can vary significantly between contractors — sometimes intentionally to win on price, sometimes because one contractor simply does better work than another.

The materials alone can account for hundreds of dollars in variation on a single project. A 150-foot cedar privacy fence built with 2 3/8″ x9′ 13ga posts set 3 feet deep in concrete with three rails and premium-grade cedar pickets is a fundamentally different product from the same footage built with 2 3/8″ x 8′ 16ga posts set 18 inches deep in tamped soil with two rails and #2-grade boards — even if both bids say “cedar privacy fence, 6 feet tall.”

The contractor who builds the first fence and the contractor who builds the second fence will both deliver something that looks like a finished fence on day one. The difference shows up at year three, year five, and year eight when one fence is still standing straight and the other is leaning, sagging, and losing boards.

1. Post Type, Size, and Depth

This is where the most significant variation between bids lives, and it’s the section most homeowners skip because they don’t know what to look for. In North Texas, the standard for wood privacy fence posts is 2 3/8-inch galvanized steel — and within that specification, the wall thickness of the post is the critical variable.

The preferred standard: 2 3/8-inch post, .095 wall thickness (13 gauge / 20 weight)

This is the post specification that experienced North Texas fence contractors use on quality jobs. The .095 wall thickness gives the post meaningful structural rigidity — it resists bending under wind load, holds fasteners securely, and has significantly more material to resist corrosion over time compared to lighter-gauge alternatives. When someone in the industry refers to a “20 weight” post, this is what they mean.

The cheap alternative: 2 3/8-inch post, .065 wall thickness (16 gauge)

From a distance — or on a bid sheet that just says “2 3/8 steel post” — these look identical. The .065 wall is noticeably thinner, lighter to handle, and meaningfully less rigid under lateral load. It’s the post specification that makes a fence look fine for the first couple of years and then start showing movement when North Texas storms and soil shifts start working on it. The cost difference per post is small. The performance difference over a decade is not.

Post hole width matters too. The preferred standard for a 2 3/8 post is an 8-inch diameter hole. A 6-inch hole — the cheaper, faster alternative — gives you less concrete coverage around the post, which means less resistance to lateral movement and less protection for the post base where moisture and soil contact concentrate. post base where moisture and soil contact concentrate.

Post depth is non-negotiable. In North Texas clay soil, posts should be set at a minimum of 3 feet deep and set in concrete. Clay soil expands and contracts significantly with moisture, and shallow posts will shift with it. A bid specifying 2-foot post depth is a bid that’s shortcutting the most important structural decision in the entire fence.

Post Spacing Limits: Pay close attention to how far apart the contractor plans to space the posts. On a standard 6-foot tall fence, post spacing should be no more than 8 feet apart. If you upgrade to an 8-foot tall fence, the post spacing must be tightened to no more than 6 feet apart. Taller fences catch much more wind, and narrowing the distance between posts ensures the structural frame can handle the increased load without buckling.

What to ask: What gauge are the posts — .095 or .065 wall thickness? What diameter are the post holes? How deep are the posts being set? Are they set in concrete? What is the maximum post spacing for my fence height?

2. Rail Count and Configuration

Rails are the horizontal members that connect the posts and carry the pickets. A standard 6-foot privacy fence is built with either two or three rails — and the difference matters more than most homeowners realize.

A two-rail fence uses a top rail and a bottom rail, with pickets spanning the full 6-foot height between them. It’s less expensive to build and looks the same as a three-rail fence on installation day. The problem shows up during the first significant wind event — a 6-foot panel with no mid-rail has significant flex, and that flex puts stress on every picket fastener and post connection in the section.

A three-rail fence adds a center rail at approximately the 3-foot height, which dramatically reduces panel flex and distributes wind load across two shorter spans instead of one tall one. In Texas, where spring storm season brings sustained high winds annually, the third rail is not a luxury upgrade — it’s the right way to build a fence that lasts.

The rule for 8-foot tall fences: If you are upgrading to an 8-foot tall privacy fence, the structural demands increase significantly. An 8-foot fence should always be built with a minimum of four horizontal rails. The extra height catches substantially more wind load, and a fourth rail is necessary to prevent the taller boards from twisting, bowing, and pulling away from the frame.

What to ask: How many rails are included? What dimensions are the rails — 2×4 is standard, 2×3 is a cost-cutting substitution? Are the rails face-nailed to the posts or set in metal brackets, and does the quote include the hardware? If quoting an 8-foot fence, does the bid specify four rails?

3. Material Grade and Species

A bid that says “cedar pickets” can mean almost anything. Cedar comes in multiple grades with meaningfully different knot frequency, moisture content, and dimensional consistency — and the difference between a select-grade cedar picket and a #2-grade cedar picket is visible the moment you put them side by side.

Higher-grade pickets have fewer knots, more consistent grain, and better dimensional accuracy. They lie flat, stain evenly, and look uniform in the finished fence. Lower-grade pickets have more knots, may arrive cupped or bowed, and can produce a wavy, inconsistent finished appearance even when installed by a skilled crew.

The grade issue extends beyond pickets. Rails and posts sourced from inconsistent or mixed-grade supply will have more variation in moisture content, which leads to more movement — warping, twisting, and pulling — as the wood acclimates after installation.

What to ask: What grade of cedar is being used for pickets and rails? Where are materials being sourced from? Is the quote based on kiln-dried or green lumber?

4. Installation Method and Hardware

Two contractors using identical materials can build fences with very different lifespans based on how they install them. Installation details that don’t appear in a bid summary but absolutely affect the finished product include:

Post caps: A post cap on every post protects the end grain from direct water exposure — the single most common point of rot entry on above-ground fence components. It’s a small detail and a small cost. A bid that omits post caps is a bid that’s cutting costs in the wrong place.

Fasteners: Hot-dipped galvanized nails or exterior-rated screws resist the corrosion that causes fasteners to back out of the wood over time. Standard bright nails — the kind that are shiny silver right off the box — will rust in Texas weather and bleed rust streaks down the pickets within a few years. Ask specifically what fasteners are being used and whether they’re rated for exterior use.

Post setting method: Posts set in concrete are significantly more stable than posts set in tamped soil, particularly in North Texas clay that moves with moisture. Some contractors skip concrete to save time and cost. Ask whether posts are being set in concrete and how long the mix is allowed to cure before the fence load goes on.

Picket spacing and alignment: Consistent picket spacing sounds like an aesthetic detail, but uneven spacing causes visual problems that are impossible to fix without rebuilding sections. Ask how the crew manages spacing consistency across long runs and how they handle the transition at corners.

5. Gate Alignment and Hardware

Gates are the hardest-working part of a wood fence and the first component to fail if a contractor cuts corners. Because they experience constant movement, wind resistance, and gravity, gate specifications deserve as much scrutiny as the fence line itself. A low bid often hides cheap hardware, inadequate layout configurations, or structural wood-framed gates that are guaranteed to fail.

Gate Count and Strategic Placement A functional property layout usually requires a minimum of two to three gates, and their placement impacts both daily convenience and long-term structural health:

• The Main Walkway Gate: Usually a 4-foot wide single gate placed near the front or side of the house for daily foot traffic, trash can access, and guests.
• The Utility/Service Gate: A wider single gate (typically 5 to 6 feet) placed on the opposite side yard to allow lawnmowers, landscaping equipment, and technicians easy access to the backyard.
• The Double Driveway Gate: A wide, two-leaf gate system (often 10 to 12 feet total) placed across driveways or rear alleys. This requires heavy structural reinforcement because the center lacks a support post.

The Move to Metal Gate Frames Traditional wood-framed gates always sag, warp, and drag over time because suspended wood cannot support its own weight under North Texas wind loads. Quality contractors prevent this by building gates with a reinforced steel frame.

A premier standard in our region is the premium Shark Hinge & Frame Gate System sourced from Forney Fence Supply. This heavy-duty system eliminates wood deterioration by substituting standard 2×4 framing with a rigid, square-tube steel gate frame. Wood rails are attached directly to the steel frame, and then the pickets are nailed to those rails. This leaves you with a clean, matching wood aesthetic on the outside but an unyielding, commercial-grade backbone on the inside.

The Hardware Specification Blueprint The hardware choices on your bid will determine whether your gate swings smoothly for a decade or jams within six months. When utilizing a system like the Shark Gate, the hardware components tie directly into the structural post and metal frame for ultimate longevity:

• Self-Closing Hinges: Essential for safety and convenience, especially around pools or pets. Heavy-duty, spring-loaded, or hydraulic self-closing hinges ensure the gate latches automatically behind you. The Shark system features heavy-duty box hinges that mount directly from your 2 3/8″ steel post to the steel gate frame, providing a smooth 180-degree swing without stripping out wood fasteners.
• Keyable Locks and Latches: Standard gravity latches are easily compromised. Premium bids should feature heavy-duty, dual-sided lockable latches or commercial-grade magnetic latches that can be locked with a traditional key or integrated into your home’s key system.
• Drop Rods (Cane Bolts): For double driveway gates, drop rods are non-negotiable. These heavy steel rods anchor the inactive gate leaf securely into a pipe sleeve in the ground, preventing the wind from twisting the entire gate structure and tearing out the hinges.

What to ask: How many gates are included in the base price, and what are their dimensions? Are you installing traditional wood frames or a steel system like the Shark Hinge & Frame Gate System from Forney Fence Supply? Are the hinges self-closing, and does the double gate include heavy-duty drop rods?

6. Finish Quality: Raw vs. Stained Wood

The final decision that radically affects both your initial bid and the lifespan of your fence is the finish. Leaving wood raw costs less upfront but shifts the maintenance burden to you, while staining protects your investment from North Texas sun and moisture. If you choose a stained fence, how and when that stain is applied creates another major variance in contractor pricing.

Raw Wood vs. Stained Wood A raw wood fence begins weathering the moment it is installed. Without protection, UV rays break down the wood fibers, turning the rich cedar color into a dull gray within a year. Moisture penetration from rain and sprinklers causes raw wood to warp, twist, and split. Staining seals the wood, blocks UV damage, and extends the life of the fence by several years, making it a highly recommended upgrade.

Pre-Stained Material vs. On-Site Staining If your bid includes staining, you must verify the application method, as contractors use two completely different approaches:

• Pre-Stained (Factory-Stained) Lumber: This material is stained at a manufacturing facility before it arrives at your home. Pickets are typically dipped or run through a machine, ensuring 100% coverage on all six sides of every board—including the edges and back that face the rails. This creates a highly uniform finish and protects hidden areas where rot often starts. It saves labor time on-site, though the material itself carries a premium price.
• On-Site Staining (Spray or Roll): The contractor builds the fence with raw wood and then applies the stain using a commercial sprayer or rollers. This method allows you to see the exact structure before it is coated and avoids potential scuffing of the finish during construction. However, on-site staining is weather-dependent (wind and rain can delay it) and carries a risk of overspray on your house, concrete, or neighboring property. If sprayed after assembly, the hidden spots where wood meets wood remain unstained and unprotected.

What to ask: Is the fence being left raw or stained? If stained, is the contractor using pre-stained lumber or staining it on-site? Does the on-site quote include protection against overspray for my home and my neighbors’ property? How many coats of stain are included, and what is the warranty on the product?

7. Permits and Utility Line Location

Navigating local regulations and underground utilities is a crucial step that can cause major delays or unexpected liabilities if mishandled. Contractors handle these responsibilities in very different ways, and a lower bid often means they are shifting the administrative burden—and the risk—entirely onto you.

Who is Responsible for the Building Permit? In North Texas, most municipalities require a building permit for any new fence construction or major replacement.

• The Preferred Standard: A reputable, fully insured contractor will handle the entire permitting process for you. They will draft the site plan, submit the paperwork to the city, and interface with the building inspectors. They are the ones pulling the permit because they are the professional entity doing the work.
• The Cheap Alternative: A contractor who asks you to pull the permit as an “owner-builder” is often trying to avoid liability, or they may lack the proper registration and insurance required by your city. If you pull the permit, you are legally responsible for any code violations or failed inspections.

Who Pays for the Permit? The cost of the permit itself varies by city, but it should always be clearly itemized. In a premium bid, the contractor handles the paperwork and includes the actual city permit fee directly in their final price. Be wary of bids that omit this cost entirely, as you will be stuck paying the city unexpectedly before work can begin.

Who is Responsible for Utility Line Location? Before a single post hole is dug, underground utility lines (gas, electric, water, internet) must be marked to prevent dangerous and costly damage.

• The Law: In Texas, it is a legal requirement to notify Texas 811 at least two business days before digging.
• The Assignment: The contractor—as the person performing the digging—is responsible for calling Texas 811 to have public utility lines marked with spray paint or flags. However, Texas 811 only marks public lines up to your meters. Private lines—such as backyard sprinkler systems, pool lines, or detached garage power feeds—are the homeowner’s responsibility to identify. A professional contractor will ask you about private lines beforehand, while a cheap contractor will start digging and leave you with a broken sprinkler line.

What to ask: Will your company pull and manage the city building permit, or am I responsible for it? Is the cost of the permit fee included in this quote? Will you handle the Texas 811 utility locate call, and how do we handle marking my private sprinkler or pool lines?

The Final Verdict: How to Compare Your Bids

When you look at three different fence quotes, don’t just jump to the bottom line. A cheap bid is almost always a blueprint for a temporary fence. Use this quick checklist to find the contractor who will build a fence that lasts:

• The Skeleton: Ensure posts are 13-gauge (.095 wall) steel set 3 feet deep in concrete—spaced no more than 8 feet apart for a 6-foot fence and no more than 6 feet apart for an 8-foot fence.
• The Backbone: Look for three horizontal 2×4 rails for standard builds or four horizontal rails for 8-foot tall systems to eliminate wind flex.
• The Skin: Demand premium-grade cedar pickets and hot-dipped galvanized fasteners to prevent early warping and ugly rust streaks.
• The Gates: Verify the use of a rigid steel frame system like the Shark Gate from Forney Fence Supply, complete with heavy box hinges, self-closing mechanics, keyable locks, and drop rods.
• The Protection: Decide between raw wood or the comprehensive coverage of pre-stained factory lumber to combat UV rot.
• The Red Tape: Confirm the contractor is pulling the city permit, paying the fee, and managing the Texas 811 utility lines.

Getting the Right Materials Regardless of Who Builds It

If you’re managing your own project or supplying materials to your contractor, Forney Fence Supply carries everything on this checklist — cedar and pine in multiple grades, posts rated for ground contact, three-rail configurations, exterior-rated hardware, gate hinges, post caps, and fence stain — across all five Texas locations.

📞 Forney (DFW): (972) 564-3388 📞 Gunter (North Texas): (903) 207-4222 📞 Willow Park (Fort Worth): (817) 415-2338 📞 Buda (Austin area): (512) 312-4699 📞 San Antonio: (210) 549-9032

Download our full product catalog to review wood fencing specs before your project starts.